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Wind Sweater Collection
Read the Story:
Or feel free to skip straight to the pattern. It won’t hurt my feelings!
In ancient times, the changing of seasons often coincided with “shifts” in the winds - a change in direction, temperature, moisture, all of which heralded a new time of the year and a continuation of the cycle of life.
Naturally, these winds were personified as deities with attributes fitting their associated season, so I have designed a collection of crocheted sweaters that mimic those same character traits in the form of challenge levels. Here I give you the fourth and final in the collection: the Boreas Men’s Pullover.
Boreas was the god of the northern wind, a most unpredictable and biting wind. The freezing gusts and bone-chilling storms lived alongside the days of quiet stillness when the land would be covered in ice. These winters were quite challenging to survive and often tested people’s strengths.
And testing your strengths is exactly what this pattern is going to do. As such, the Boreas is a “Complex” challenge level ideal for any crocheter wanting to demonstrate their mastery over even the most advanced of techniques.
While worked entirely in half double crochet, the Boreas Men’s Pullover will leave you guessing the next step with how you’re going to use it. You can expect random combinations of front and back post stitches and shifting increase points.
Like the winter, this sweater will sometimes cause a torrent of emotion - including bitter frustration as well as triumphant satisfaction. In other words, it will also leave you feeling like a boss for surviving through it just like someone surviving a long, harsh winter.
Everything has led to this moment - all the techniques you have learned from making the other sweaters in the Wind Sweater Collection or from other crochet projects you’ve completed. Steel yourself and prepare for this final challenge in this series as you make the Boreas Men’s Pullover!
Want the ad-free printable version? Check it out here:
Want the entire Wind Sweater Collection? Check it out here:
Materials & Pattern Information
Yarn | A Chick That Knitz hand-dyed yarn, "Silver Fox" 70% superwash Merino wool, 30% mulberry silk CYC 1 (Fingering) weight, 22 wpi 438yd/3.5oz (400m/100g) per skein (see size chart for quantities needed) Alternative yarns: Gloss Fingering, Twill Fingering, Capretta Superwash, Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace, EFA Amal Fingering, EFA Moongleam Fingering, EFA Sincere Sock |
Hook | Main: US C/2 (2.75mm) or any hook needed to achieve gauge Ribbing: US B/1 (2.25mm) - This is optional for tighter ribbing Recommended hooks: Clover Amour, Tulip Etimo |
Notions | Yarn needle, scissors, 13 stitch markers (1 unique marker for the end of the round, 12 for increasing) |
Challenge Level | Complex: Confidence with crochet and experience creating projects; knowledge of chain stitches, half double crochet, and slip stitches; uncommon increasing, joining, and stitch techniques will be used and explained. |
Finished Sizes | Instructions for each size will be presented in the following format: XS (S, M, L, 1X) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) It’s always a good idea to go through the entire pattern first to circle or highlight the instructions for the size you’re working. *If only one value is given in an instruction, it applies to all sizes. If you see “-” or “x” in your size’s place, do not follow those instructions. |
Gauge | There are two gauges for this pattern, but both will be a square in 4” (10cm). Gauge 1 (for yoke): worked in half double crochets alternating between front post and back post half double crochets 30 sts, 30 rows Gauge 2 (for everything else): worked in regular half double crochets 27.5 sts, 25 rows (a post and space = a whole stitch; one post = half a stitch) *See “Notes” section for how to create gauge swatches |
Check out the tutorial video for help with this pattern!
Sizes
Sweater’s Chest Measurements | Wearer’s Chest Measurements | |
XS | 34” (87 cm) | 30-32” (76-81 cm) |
S | 38” (98 cm) | 34-36” (86-92 cm) |
M | 42” (107 cm) | 38-40” (97-102 cm) |
L | 46” (118 cm) | 42-44” (107-112 cm) |
1X | 50” (127 cm) | 46-48” (117-122 cm) |
2X | 54” (138 cm) | 50-52” (127-132 cm) |
3X | 58” (148 cm) | 54-56” (137-142 cm) |
4X | 62” (158 cm) | 58-60” (148-152 cm) |
5X | 66” (168 cm) | 62-64” (158-163 cm) |
Yardage Meters | Skeins |
2472 (2775, 3201, 3549, 3892) (4241, 4604, 4955, 5335) 2260 (2537, 2927, 3245, 3559) (3878, 4210, 4531, 4878) | 6 (7, 8, 9, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) |
Stitch Information
Abbreviations Used BLO Back loop only Ch(s) Chain(s) Ctr Center Dec Decrease Ea Each Hdc Half double crochet Hk Hook Inc Increase Lp(s) Loop(s) Rem Remaining Rnd(s) Round(s) RS Right side Sk(d) Skip(ped) Sl st Slip stitch SM Stitch marker St(s) Stitch(es) TLO Third loop only WS Wrong side YO Yarn over | Special Stitches BPhdc Back post half double crochet FPhdc Front post half double crochet Hdc dec Half double crochet decrease Hdc inc Half double crochet increase Hdc TLO Half double third loop only Inv join Invisible join Post st inc Post stitch increase BPhdc YO, insert hk around post of st going back to front to back, YO, draw up a lp (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps FPhdc YO, insert hk around post of st going front to back to front, YO, draw up a lp (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps Hdc dec YO, insert hk into front lp of next st and into both lps of second next st, YO, draw up a lp (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps on hk <worked across 2 sts, dec to 1 st> Hdc inc Work 2 hdc into same st <inc from 1 st to 2 sts> Hdc TLO Work hdc into the third lp of the hdc in row below (the third lp is the YO that will be visible on the side of the st facing when when you turn each round) Inv join (used to join rnds) Work final st of rnd until one YO rem, going behind work insert hk into first st of rnd, pull lp through everything <does not count as a st> To make this as “invisible” as possible, turn your work counterclockwise to begin the next round. This will put your working yarn in a place where you can work your first stitch around it, effectively “hiding” it. Post st inc Work 2 FPhdc or 2 BPhdc around the same st <inc from 1 st to 2 sts> Post st dec YO, insert hk around first st, YO, draw up a lp (3 lps on hk), insert hk around next st, YO, draw up a lp (4 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps <worked across 2 sts, dec to 1 st> This is only used if you work the entire sweater in the yoke pattern. |
Notes IMPORTANT! Definitely don’t skip these. |
Both gauge swatches will have the same instructions but have you work the hdc in different places.
As part of the complex challenge level, I provide as many notes and explanations to help with some of the more challenging techniques as possible along with the video tutorial. However, even the best explanations and demonstrations cannot guarantee complete understanding of every facet. I strongly recommend reading all notes and explanations carefully while being prepared to frog if you’re not satisfied with the result or it doesn’t look “right” enough. The key will be patience and practice, and I know you will get it in the end! |