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Read the Story:
Or feel free to skip straight to the pattern. It won’t hurt my feelings!
I have always been fascinated by ancient Germanic people and the mysterious runes with which they recorded their language. But unlike the letters we use today, runes were more than just a tool for recording sounds - they were symbols of magic and power, not to be taken lightly. Pagans and Christians alike viewed them with both reverence and fear.
I have also always felt something similarly mystical when I crochet - each stitch and each completed item my way of imbuing love into my work. What more perfect way to combine these two magical crafts than to create a crochet pattern inspired by the runes?
Thus the idea for the Runic Tunic was born! Not only did the name just naturally manifest itself, but the idea of a tunic-style pullover felt authentic to what the ancient Germanic peoples would have worn.
Many Germanic tribes lived in coastal areas where fishing was the way of life, so the use of the herringbone double crochet as the main stitch added another layer of meaning in an already meaning-heavy pattern - plus it’s fun to work up and creates a beautiful texture! Furthermore, runes were very personal - used on epitaphs and carved into special weapons and tools. As such, I’ve provided instructions and guidance for creating your own personalized rune band, giving you a chance to create a truly unique wearable for yourself or a loved one.
Now embark on your own magical journey as you craft your Runic Tunic!
Feel free to purchase the ad-free printable PDF!
Materials & Pattern Information | |
Yarn | Viking Fiber Co. hand-dyed yarn, "Odin's Ravens" (MC) and "Tyr's Sacrifice" (CC) Nornir DK: 100% non-superwash wool (60% Merino, 30% Corriedale, 10% Grey Romney) CYC 3 (Light) weight, 12 wpi 230yd/3.5oz (210m/100g) per skein (see size chart for quantities needed) Alternative yarns: A Chick That Knitz DK, Tromso Tweed DK, Swish DK, Kristy’s Fiber Arts DK |
Hook | US F/5 (3.75mm) or any hook needed to achieve gauge US D/3 (3.25mm) for sleeve cuffs Recommended hooks: Furls, Clover Amour, Leither Co. |
Notions | |
Challenge Level | Confident experience with crochet. Techniques include color work, post stitches, cables, some calculations, rune arrangement, irregular increase/decrease patterns, uncommon stitches and techniques. |
Finished Sizes | Instructions for each size will be presented in the following format: XS (S, M, L, 1X) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) It’s always a good idea to go through the entire pattern first and circle or highlight the instructions for the size you’re working. *If only one value is given in an instruction, it applies to all sizes. |
Gauge | Blocked square in 4” (10cm) worked in herringbone double crochet pattern: 32 sts, 33 rows *See “Notes” section for how to create a gauge swatch. |
Abbreviations & Stitch Information
BLO Back loop only CC Contrasting color Ch(s) Chain(s) Ctr Center Dc Double crochet Dec Decrease Ea Each Hdc Half double crochet Hk Hook Inc Increase Lp(s) Loop(s) MC Main color Rem Remaining Rnd Round RS Right side Sc Single crochet Sk(d) Skip(ped) Sl st Slip stitch SM Stitch marker St(s) Stitch(es) WS Wrong side YO Yarn over | Beg herr dc Beginning herringbone double crochet BPdc Back post double crochet BPtr Back post treble crochet Cable (RS) Right side cable Cable (WS) Wrong side cable Dc2tog Double crochet 2 together FPdc Front post double crochet FPtr Front post treble crochet FPdtr Front post double treble crochet FPdc2tog Front post double crochet 2 together FPtr2tog Front post treble crochet 2 together Hdc TLO Half double crochet in 3rd loop only Hdc3tog Half double crochet 3 together Herr dc Herringbone double crochet Inv join Invisible join Lslst Linked slip stitch Sc3tog Single crochet 3 together St/st tog Work 2 indicated stitches together Tw scTwisted single crochet |
Beg herr dc Sl st into first st, ch 1, insert hk through front lp going through top of sl st just made, YO, pull up a lp (2 lps on hk), YO, draw through one lp (2 lps on hk), YO, draw through both lps. (used at beginning of rows/rnds) <counts as 1 st>
BPdc YO, insert hk back to front to back around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, draw through 2 lps] twice.
BPtr YO twice, insert hk back to front to back around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, draw through 2 lps] three times.
Cable (RS) Worked around post sts: Sk next 3 sts, 3 FPtr, working in front of sts just made 3 FPtr around skd sts, 3 FPdc. <counts as 9 sts>
Cable (WS) Worked around post sts: Sk next 3 sts, 3 BPtr, working behind sts just made 3 BPtr around skd sts, 3 BPdc. <counts as 9 sts>
Dc2tog *YO, insert hk into st, YO, draw up a lp, yo, draw through two lps, rep from * once more into next st (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
FPdc YO, insert hk front to back to front around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, draw through 2 lps] twice.
FPtr YO twice, insert hk front to back to front around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, draw through 2 lps] three times.
FPdtr YO three times, insert hk front to back to front around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, draw through 2 lps] four times.
FPdc2tog *YO, insert hk front to back to front around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, YO, draw through 2 lps, rep from * once more around same st (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
FPdc3tog *YO, insert hk front to back to front around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, YO, draw through 2 lps, rep from * twice more around same st (4 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
FPtr2tog *YO twice, insert hk front to back to front around indicated st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, draw through 2 lps] twice, rep from * once more around same st (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
Hdc TLO Work hdc into the third lp of the hdc in row below (the third lp is the YO that will be visible on the side of the st).
Hdc3tog YO, insert hk into first st, YO, draw up a lp, insert hk into second st, YO, draw up a lp, insert hk into third st, YO, draw up a lp (5 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
Herr dc YO, insert hk into st, YO, draw through st and first lp, YO, draw through 1 lp, YO, draw through last 2 lps.
Herr dc2tog *YO, insert hk into st, YO, draw through st and first lp, yo, draw through one lp, rep from * once more into next st (3 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
Inv join (used to join rnds) Work final st of rnd until one YO rem, going behind work insert hk into first st of rnd, pull lp through everything. <does not count as a st>
To make this as “invisible” as possible, I recommend turning your work counterclockwise (hook clockwise) to begin the next round. This will put your working yarn in a place where you can work your first stitch around it, effectively “hiding” it.
Lslst Insert hk into previously worked st, YO, draw up a lp, insert hk into next unworked st, YO, draw through everything. <counts as 1 st>
Sc3tog Insert hk into first st, YO, draw up a lp, insert hk into second st, YO, draw up a lp, insert hk into third st, YO, draw up a lp (4 lps on hk), YO, draw through all lps. <counts as 1 st>
St/st tog Work the two stitches together around indicated stitches.
For example, “FPdc/FPtr tog next two posts” means to work a FPdc around next unworked post stitch until 2 loops remain, work a FPtr around the next unworked post stitch to completion (essentially joining the two stitches together into one stitch). <counts as 1 st>
Tw sc Insert hk into st, YO, draw up a lp to full height of st, turn hk counterclockwise, YO, draw through both lps.
There's a tutorial video you can check out here:
Notes (definitely don’t skip) |
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Pattern Instructions